Rift Valley and Lakes

The Rift Valley is a geological scar that cuts through Kenya from north to south for more than 800 kilometres, from Lake Turkana to the Tanzanian border. Our team in Nairobi takes most travellers to its central section, between Naivasha, Nakuru, Elementaita and Bogoria, roughly one and a half to three hours' drive from the capital via the B3 then the A104. It is a highland region, around 1,800 metres elevation, where temperatures range from 10°C at night to 25°C by day, making it a comfortable stop before or after the heat of the Mara or Tsavo.

The landscape is dominated by a chain of lakes aligned along the floor of the tectonic rift, some freshwater like Naivasha, others alkaline such as Nakuru, Elementaita, Bogoria and Magadi. This chemical diversity explains the richness of birdlife: more than 450 species recorded in Nakuru park alone, among them the lesser flamingos that have now moved predominantly towards Bogoria since Nakuru's water levels rose between 2010 and 2013. Above the shores, the Mau escarpment to the west and the Aberdare to the east frame the valley, punctuated by the extinct volcanoes of Longonot and Suswa, whose calderas can be explored on four to six hour treks.

The region is historically the territory of the Maasai in its southern section, the Kikuyu on the agricultural lands of the highlands, and the Tugen and Kalenjin further north towards Bogoria and Baringo. It was in these Tugen hills, around Tabarin, that the remains of Orrorin tugenensis were discovered, one of the oldest known bipedal hominids, some six million years old. Further south, the prehistoric site of Hyrax Hill, near Nakuru, and that of Kariandusi preserve obsidian tools knapped more than 700,000 years ago, evidence of very ancient human occupation of the rift.

The local economy was built around intensive agriculture: Naivasha accounts for nearly 70 per cent of Kenya's cut flower production, exported daily to Amsterdam from JKIA airport. Horticultural farms employ tens of thousands of people from across the country. Higher up on the slopes, dairy operations and pyrethrum plantations sit alongside small Kikuyu market gardens. This dense human occupation, at the margins of protected areas, explains recurring conflicts with Naivasha's hippopotamuses and the buffalo that emerge from Hell's Gate park.

For the traveller, the valley's appeal lies in this density of experiences within a short radius. In one day from Naivasha, you can do a morning game drive at Nakuru to see black and white rhinos, lunch by the lakeshore, walk in the afternoon at Crescent Island among giraffes and zebras without a vehicle, then finish with a boat outing at sunset amid hippopotamuses. It is this compression of experiences, impossible elsewhere in Kenya, that justifies two or three nights on the ground, not merely a lunch stop as some express circuits to the Mara still suggest.

For food, you eat here whole grilled lake tilapia, accompanied by ugali, as well as goat nyama choma in the small restaurants along Moi South Lake Road. Farms open to the public, such as Kigio or Oserian, also offer outdoor dinners with local produce.

To Discover

Black and white rhinos at Lake Nakuru. Nakuru National Park is a fenced sanctuary that is home to around 60 black rhinos and 80 white rhinos. Morning game drives on the southern pistes of the lake offer close sightings, often on the first outing.

Walking at Crescent Island. This private peninsula on Lake Naivasha can be explored on foot in two hours, without vehicle or armed guide, among Rothschild giraffes, zebras, wildebeest and impalas. The absence of predators makes the experience accessible to families with children.

Lesser flamingos at Lake Bogoria. Since the birds relocated away from Nakuru, Bogoria regularly concentrates over one million lesser flamingos along its southern shores, near the active geysers that spout water at 95°C in a mineral landscape.

Trekking the Hell's Gate gorges. Park accessible by bicycle or on foot, without major predators, where you cross the basalt columns of Fischer's Tower before descending into the narrow gorges carved by rains, with hot springs halfway through.

Climbing Longonot volcano. Seven-kilometre loop around the summit caldera at 2,776 metres, allow four to five hours return from the park entrance. Plunging views over Naivasha and, in clear weather, the Mau escarpment.

When to Go

The Rift Valley can be visited year-round thanks to its temperate highland climate: days at 22-26°C, nights at 10-14°C. We recommend two main windows. From late June to October, the dry season offers passable tracks, sparse vegetation favourable for rhino spotting at Nakuru, and clear skies over the volcanoes. From January to mid-March, the short dry season is equally excellent, with concentrations of European migratory birds on the alkaline lakes.

The two rainy seasons, lasting from mid-March to end May and from late October to early December, complicate Nakuru park's pistes and can make climbing Longonot slippery, with totals of 150 to 200 mm in April. However, verdant landscapes and lower visitor numbers appeal to photographer travellers. Bogoria, situated further north in a semi-arid zone, receives significantly less rain and remains accessible year-round.

Practical Tips

We recommend two to three nights in the region to see it properly: one night is only enough to race through Nakuru. With three nights based around Lake Naivasha, you can combine Nakuru, Crescent Island, Hell's Gate and possibly Bogoria as a day excursion (two hours' drive from Nakuru). The logistical entry point is Nairobi: 90 km via the A104 to Naivasha, a tarmac road but often crowded with trucks, allow two to two and a half hours.

The valley naturally works as a transition step between Nairobi and the Masai Mara (five to six hours of driving from Naivasha) or as an extension after Mount Kenya and Laikipia. It combines less logically with Amboseli and Tsavo, located to the south-east. Accommodation ranges from comfortable canvas camps to historic lodges like Elsamere, the former home of Joy Adamson. The region is particularly suited to families with children thanks to activities without vehicles, to birdwatchers, and to contemplative travellers who appreciate a less demanding pace than the major parks.